Tough or inferior meat; poor quality food, especially old or scrappy meat.
From low or slang English, possibly dialectal or from carnival/fair slang. The exact origin is unclear, but it has meant 'poor meat' since at least the 1700s.
When restaurants served 'cagmag' to workers and servants, nobody was excited about dinner—the word survives in old cookbooks as a brutal reminder of class divisions in food quality.
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